Far East Affair

By Mahmood Hossain

An authentic cultural experience is delivered by those who are not only born or raised in their respective
homelands but possess a deeper connection and understanding of their roots. One of the select few ways to
respectfully present one’s heritage is through the culinary arts, something Yu Ting Yuan at the Four Seasons
Hotel Bangkok, next to the Chao Phraya River, knows all too well. Headed by Executive Chef Tommy Cheung,
with his extensive experience in Michelin-starred establishments in Hong Kong and Taipei, this restaurant provides the true essence of Cantonese cuisine – the most popular Chinese cuisine in the world.

As beloved as it may be, it can be appreciated in many ways; one of them, of course, is to savour every single bite
that comes out of the kitchen. For a ngaw-dai (餓底 – Cantonese slang in Hong Kong meaning foodie) like me, the
idea of devouring authentic Chinese food is an offer I could never refuse, especially after years of subjecting myself
to consuming Westernised versions of Far East delicacies. Yu Ting Yuan offers ingredients that don’t stray far from
traditional kitchens and the hallmarks of Cantonese food. I desired a meal that was less about pomp and show and more about embracing the essence of a Cantonese kitchen with refined technique. My friend and I were not disappointed.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

Entering one of the classier restaurants in town is an immersive dining experience through the world of Cantonese flavours and Thai hospitality. Large floor-to- ceiling doors and windows, the backdrop of a lush garden, a reflective pond and a starry night sky waltzing with the intimate lighting within the restaurant create an enchanting atmosphere. A guest can sense the alluring aura of its sophistication from the moment they step foot inside Yu Ting Yuan. Its round tables with roses set at the centre of polished Lazy Susans, beautiful art hung under spotlights, colour scheme of red and black, and elements of classic wood and marble place its interior décor as a fine example of how restauranteurs should frame their fine dining space.

FOOD & DRINKS

The curated culinary artistry of Executive Chef Tommy Cheung, alongside a team of culinary experts, is on full display, from the open kitchen view of chefs preparing Peking duck and dim sum to each dish making its way to our table. The wonderful service staff started us off with a recommended signature cocktail named the YTY gimlet, which is a traditional Gimlet, masterfully striking the perfect balance of gin, lime juice and sugar but with the restaurant’s own twist. We were offered a second trip of this delicious cocktail just to make sure the first round wasn’t a fluke. It’s safe to say the consistency shined, complementing their food.

Starting off with appetisers, we were treated to the Mixed black fungus salad (THB 390), a fresh and zesty combination of the subtle crunch of mushrooms with the juicy burst of flavour from sliced cherry tomatoes. The crispiness continued with the Vegetarian spring roll with Matsutake mushroom (THB 220; available for lunch). There is something inherently comforting about spring rolls and their hot, deep-fried form dipped in various sauces; sweet, sour or spicy. These particular rolls were far from the oily mess you would expect from a delivery or take-out; they were neatly wrapped, absent of excess oil and kinder to the tastebuds.

The evening’s seafood offering came in a warm bowl of Sichuan mapo tofu (THB 1,250) with Canadian lobster. Interestingly, originating from the town of Chengdu, Mapo was the name of the wife of a restaurant owner in the 1860s, assisting him in the kitchen and regularly cooking this wonderful dish for frequent visitors until the 1920s. The Chen Mapo restaurant still stands today in Chengdu.

With the addition of lobster, this bowl of tofu was spicy, not too numbing, hot, fragrant, soft, and, of course, fresh. I can only imagine how it may have tasted in the early 20th century, but I am confident they would have been proud of Yin Ting Yuan’s rendition.

The next item on the menu that elevated the meal was a staple in Chinese cuisine, the Wok-fried spicy kong bao chicken (THB 680). The famous “kung pao,” based on the traditional Sichuan formula, is cooked with cubes of chicken, scallions and peanuts, seasoned with dried chilli and Sichuan pepper with the restaurant’s take on the traditional sauce. Accompanying this dish were the Vegetable fried rice (THB 420), Fried noodles with prawns (THB 550) and Stir-fried string beans (THB 580) with dried prawns.

It wouldn’t be a proper and complete Chinese meal without the presence of rice and noodles, while the string beans add to the crispy comfort of an aromatic line-up of Cantonese delights. Finally, to top off a wonderful evening, came the Chilled mango and sago cream with pomelo from the menu’s Dim Sum Lunch Set. Served on a beautiful, exclusively designed ceramic plate, the cool and light mango felt like a chilled breeze for the tastebuds, while the sago cream provided a soft and airy touch to the pithy and tangy taste of the pomelo.

MASALA RECOMMENDS

We were fortunate enough to be treated to a combination of Barbecue pork (THB 580) with honey sauce and Crispy roasted pork belly (THB 600) with mustard. It was instant satisfaction the moment the cubes of barbecue and roasted meat sat warmly in our mouths as we sank into its tender and crispy texture. Placed under the Barbecue & Appetizers section (available for lunch and dinner) of the menu, we were pleasantly surprised that our first taste of Yu Ting Yuan set the tone for the rest of the meal. If there was one item on the entire menu that could trigger our gluttonous side, it was this juicy temptation.

YU TING YUAN
Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok at Chao Phraya River 300/1 Charoen Krung Road, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120
Reservation: +66 (02) 032 0888
Lunch: 11.30am – 2.30pm
Dinner: 6pm – 10.30pm
Facebook: @yutingyuangbangkok
Instagram: @yutingyuanbkk
www.fourseasons.com/bangkok/dining/restaurants/yu-ting-yuan