By: Mahmood Hossain

The culinary landscape is so vast that it produces pure elation when discovering different styles of cuisine across the world. Each cuisine has its regional characteristics; some stay true to traditions, while others evolve by introducing contemporary influences. Then, there are restaurants like Yantra. Creatively directed by culinary historian Pritha Sen and Executive Chef Pinaki Ray, Yantra is a beautiful representation of the rich tapestry of Indian flavours in a modern gastronomic journey. Established in Singapore, the restaurant claims to have embraced a philosophy that pays homage to traditional Indian cuisine while adopting innovative techniques and flair. Its carefully-curated menu, balanced with veg and non-veg options, showcases premium and rare ingredients sourced from all over South and Southeast Asia.

This eclectic mix is not only boast-worthy because of its vibrant combination of flavours, but it highlights the brilliance of India’s versatility in conjuring culinary magic from one region to the next. The countless and unique ways of plating Indian food continue to leave me in awe. In honour of such an experience, Anantara Riverside Bangkok Resort graciously welcomed Yantra to dazzle its dining crowd with a pop-up that turned out to be one of the more exciting kitchen collaborations I’ve been to. I had the pleasure of sitting pretty while Chef Pinaki and his team served up some of the most exquisite Indian food (via Singapore) I’ve had in a while. This was an invitation to remember.

FOOD AND DRINKS

Personally, it’s always a good sign when the evening’s meal begins with a glass of red wine from Tuscany. For this occasion, I was treated to a glass of 2020 Le Volte dell’Ornellaia, an excellent, everyday wine that is a juicy blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese grapes. It delivers a vibrant acidity where the cherries and blood orange stand out on top of the savoury, earthy and woody elements. But enough about the wine. We tried out options from the dinner set menu (THB 2,900 per person) and a few dishes which were also available à la carte (prices in brackets). The first bite of the dinner set menu came from the evening’s amuse-bouche, Khoi bora, which is popped multigrain rice, ginger, and fennel balled up and made easy to pop into the mouth. The popped rice fritter (khoi er bora) comes from a traditional Bengali recipe, normally prepared as a snack.

After exiting the home kitchens of Bengal, I indulged in the beetroot crisp, aerated yoghurt, and tamarind crunch of the Chaatbanarasi. Made popular by traders across India, this dish hits all the right spots, throwing me into a torrent of nostalgia as I refrained from begging for more. What made matters more challenging was diving into the Baby samosa chat (THB 420), a temptress in disguise with its combination of baby potatoes, green peas, cumin, and turmeric. Hoping to bring me out of this hypnotised state, the chef got to the meat of the matter (pun intended) with a seducing plate of Tandoori lamb chop (THB 650) covered in house spices; it was cooked to perfection and slid off the bone like butter.

While the lamb could have easily fulfilled my culinary desires, the Mahi tikka, mustard-marinated mahi tossed in a tandoor, with shishito pepper and mango chutney, made for a welcoming fish dish. Following suit was the Chicken malai kebab (THB 480) bathed in yoghurt, cheese, cardamom, and mint chutney. The Purani dilli murg makhani (THB 550), chicken tikka in makhani gravy, for the lack of a better term, was finger-licking good, especially when you have Garlic naan (THB 150) at your disposal. Once you dip a piece of that naan into the gravy, you won’t want to stop. To round things up, we had the Nawabi tarkari biryani with seasonal vegetables and cottage cheese, cooked in ‘purdah,’ with flavours of mint, coriander, and saffron. This was a brilliant companion to one of Yantra’s masterpieces, which I’ve saved for our ‘Masala Recommends.’

MASALA RECOMMENDS

The Sutta gosht (THB 620), slow- cooked mutton for over four hours, was beautifully cooked and prepared. The meat was tender and juicy with rich and flavourful combinations of spices. By this stage, my glass of wine was running low, enabling me to savour every single bite of this amazing dish, capping off what I would call one of the best mutton dishes I have ever come across. I made sure to shake the chef’s hand for his brilliance before I took the last sip of the Ornellaia wine. I couldn’t recommend this dining journey enough. The Yantra pop-up, only available until 25 August 2024 for lunch from 12pm to 3pm, and dinner from 5pm to 10pm, will leave you beyond satisfied, if not leave you craving more!

YANTRA AT ANANTARA RIVERSIDE BANGKOK RESORT

257/1-3 Charoennakorn Road Thonburi, Bangkok, Thailand 10110

Tel: 02 431 9489

www.anantara.com/en/riverside-bangkok/restaurants/yantra