As good as gold.

By Shradha Aswani

The fact that I am new to Bangkok has become old. The six months that I have spent here have been full of attempts to find places that feel my own; anchors that can help me ground myself after tiresome days of wondering where I truly belong. Who would have thought that a Thai restaurant would help me find
refuge during my struggle with migration.

Tucked away in a corner of the Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers, Thara Thong is an inviting window to the rich palette of the country, and the legacy it holds. On this occasion, I was lucky to experience a variety of signature dishes that are Executive Chef Tomas Keskitalo’s take on age-old Thai recipes.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

The restaurant’s name translates to ‘golden river,’ an obvious metaphor for it overlooking the Chao Phraya River. But the correlation does not end here. The picturesque view is complemented by décor reminiscent
of the inside of Thailand’s wats, allowing the mystique of old Siam and the calm of a Buddhist temple to add themselves to your dining experience.

Elegant wood lines the interiors, with floor-length glass for walls, bringing in ample sun or starlight whilst dining during different parts of the day. The conical roof, with hanging yellow lamps and classical background music, sets the mood for intimate bonding, whether you’re visiting with family, friends, colleagues, or your significant other. You could also enjoy traditional Thai dance presentations if you visit after 7pm from Thursday to Sunday.

FOOD AND DRINK

After a smiling and warm welcome to the space, I was excited to dine amidst a crowd that seemed to be consisting of locals and foreigners equally, telling of the fact that I could depend on the preparations
to be authentic.

We started with a healthy homage to Thailand’s famed soups and salads, starting with the Yum som-o goong (THB 428), a pomelo salad with shrimp and coconut flakes that was the perfect blend of sweet and sour. The Tom yum goong mae nam (THB 428), a delicious take on the traditional Thai soup, with river prawns, lime juice, chilli and lemongrass; ensnared my senses enough to head towards the main courses.

From their vegetarian options, we sampled their Pad kra prow taow hoo thord (THB 328), deep-fried tofu that was cooked in holy basil and seasoned with chillies for that quintessential Thai flavour; and Kaeng kiew wan phak lae taow hoo (THB 358), their classic green coconut curry with vegetables and soy instead of meat. The flavours were sharp, the portions adequate, and the taste comforting, with just the right amount of spice.

The non-jae food trail took off with Pad Thai goong (THB 388), the shrimp variant of my most-preferred Thai noodles. CNN Travel’s ‘King of Curries,’ Kaeng mussaman nua (THB 428) followed next, its Mughal lineage underlining the Indian roots of Thai food. My personal favourite was the Ped yang sauce makham (THB 698) from their Special’s menu, comprised of succulent, char-grilled organic duck breasts, cooked in a mouth-watering blend of aromatics. And then, of course, there was dessert, Coconut ice cream (THB 298) with four different toppings for texture, and to complete the Thai experience.

MASALA RECOMMENDS

Toothsome and appetising, the Larb Nua Poo Avocado (THB 428) was an interesting take on the beloved larb salad. Made with crab meat and avocado, its piquant flavour reinstated my faith in the fact that good food has
the power to set everything right. (I am fighting my urge to add almost, only because of my aversion to absolutes, but I guess you get the point!)

THARA THONG
1st Floor, Royal Orchid Sheraton
Hotel & Towers
2 Charoen Krung Road Soi 30
(Captain Bush Lane) Siphaya,
Bangrak, Bangkok, 10500
Open daily from 6pm to 10pm
Tel: 02 266 0123
www.royalorchidsheraton.com