New mischiefs aboard.
By Shradha Aswani
My visit to Jhol has been long overdue, as a newcomer to the F&B scene in Bangkok, and as someone who loves exploring experimental Indian food. So, when the opportunity of tasting the new additions to their menu came up, I was really excited.
The restaurant stood out in Sukhumvit 18’s quiet neighbourhood, making me feel that I was walking into an exciting villa back in India. I was curious about why a fine-dining restaurant would name themselves after a word that roughly translates to “mischief” in English, but both the space, and its creatively adventurous menu answered my question right at the onset.
From mainstream items from Kolkata and Mangalore to delicacies from remote corners like Cuttack, Coorg, and Berhampore, the food options were expansive. With the help of a special research team dedicated towards discovering local cuisine from interiors of the Indian subcontinent, the restaurant had done a great job in recreating them for Thailand.
We started with Puchka (THB 290). A version of pani puri formerly served with a side of passion fruit water, these perfectly round puchkas owned their Bengali identity, through their filling comprised of mashed potatoes, soy sprouts, and pomegranate pearls; along with their accompaniment, tamarind water. A single piece in my mouth made me feel like the entire subcontinent was collected in my palette, without exaggeration.
Cuttack dahi bara alu dum (THB 320), an Odisha-originated variation of the dish, followed next. We were specifically instructed to spoon a layer of spicy potatoes, soaked baras, onions, and crispy sev in a single bite, and devour it with a sip of buttermilk. Thinking back on it transports me back to heaven.
We started our main course with a dish that is essentially a parameter to gauge the calibre of an Indian restaurant, the daal. A well-prepared daal should be flavourful, nutritious, and perfectly balanced. Jhol’s Palakura Pappu, an Andhra-style spinach daal, ticked all these boxes, and brought an extra special ghee tadka into the picture. Its deeply tempting aroma and appearance were just a prelude to the way it melted in my mouth, and bagged my loyalty to the restaurant, perhaps forever.
But it’s not just the daal that’s worth raving about at Jhol. The restaurant’s entire menu was a celebration of Indian cuisine, with a focus on traditional flavors and innovative twists. Their meat is halal, and I even found out that they have done away with naans from their menu, so that they are able to introduce the audience here to more authentic breads that are consumed across the country.
Badanekai ennegayi (THB 480) served with Thecha porotta – a coconut based creamy curry with stuffed eggplants, followed next for us. Its signature flavour is derived from niger seeds, and its moreish spice levels made it a must-try for the next time you visit. For those who prefer gravies that are a tad sweet, the Mushroom and cashew caldin (THB 490), a Goan style stew of seasonal vegetables served with kalappam, is ideal.
The NH5 chicken bharta (THB 590) was an exciting variation of dhaba-style pulled chicken lined with an onsen egg served with Mughlai paratha. The curry was rick and creamy, and a treat for those looking to indulge in meat instead of vegetables.
The dessert menu also had a few interesting options to choose from, but I was too full from the above to be able to try. The attentive and knowledgeable staff enriched the experience even more, and from the first bite to the last, I was transported on a journey that exceeded my expectations, one morsel at a time.
