It’s a house of fresh flavours!
By Aiden Jewelle Gonzales
I have to admit, after my recent trip to Japan where I gorged on all the sublime flavours, premium produce, and yes, judicious amounts of Japanese sake and whisky that the country had to offer, I’ve been obnoxious about how much I miss it. When we had a chance to check out the newly-opened Maison Mizuki, tucked into the Ground floor of the centrally-located Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, I jumped on the opportunity to be whisked back to Japan’s preeminent gastronomy scene for even one night.
I was especially intrigued by the concept, which is of a home owned by the fictional Madame Mizuki, an itinerant young woman raised in Tokyo who grew up with a love for whisky and stories from around the world, and eventually settled in Paris. Maison Mizuki is, the story goes, her homage to her childhood’s cuisine and culture, with her passion for whisky and welcoming people from far and wide imbued into every aspect of the space.
FIRST IMPRESSIONS
My love for speakeasies and all things hidden is no secret, so it was with much delight that I was shown the unique entrance to the restaurant, which at first glance looks like a resplendent wall of gleaming bronze, near-featureless save for embossed lettering proclaiming the name of the restaurant. Press a discreet button, however, and a screen lights up with a woman’s eyes peeking out, beautifully painted in the manner of a geisha; before the door unlocks and you step into an atmospheric corridor where a full-sized version of the woman at the door blows you a kiss from another screen in front of you.
Turn the corner and you’re greeted with sumptuous furnishings, burnished metallic touches, and mood lighting that transforms the space into something deliciously dark and secretive. In pride of place is a capacious bar, with a range of whisky labels on proud display, while a variety of seating options offer space for groups of friends or more intimate nooks for couples.
FOOD AND DRINKS
Created as a space to showcase “the authentic flavours of Mizuki’s hometown,” Maison Mizuki’s menu boasts a wide variety of exquisite sushi rolls, sashimi, and craft cocktails made from Japanese spirits; all made from fresh, premium ingredients. I always consider the mark of a good Japanese restaurant to be the freshness and variety of their sashimi, and true to form, Maison Mizuki did not disappoint. Their Sashimi moriawase set (THB 540 for 3, THB 900 for 5, THB 1,800 for 7) contained an embarrassment of riches in the form of different types of fresh-caught fish, perfectly sliced; and a personal favourite indulgence, uni. While the latter is an acquired taste, it’s always best when fresh, and I ate spoonfuls of the creamy treat, revelling in its distinctive aftertaste.
We had the honour of seeing the chef create the dishes before our eyes, and I was captivated by the way he sliced the paper-thin tataki with deft hands. When the Tuna tataki with ponzu dressing and cucumber (THB 430) arrived at our table, I was not surprised in the least that it was a melt-in-your-mouth delight, with just the right sides to add bursts of flavour as we went through each slice in record time.
Of the rolls, I would highly recommend the Salmon engawa roll (THB 320), which I found out was made from the meat muscle of a fish, and thus provides richness of flavour, combined with plenty of health benefits. Health aside, however, each one was extremely delicious. The Rainbow roll (THB 480) was a classic dish of both salmon and tuna, with avocado to add an extra layer of creamy satisfaction to the whole, while we treated ourselves with their Maki “du jour” (THB TBA), which is subject to market availability depending on the season. This time, it was a Chuturo roll, comprised of salmon, unagi, and avocado that was deceptively filling and brought to the fore all the umami goodness of the eel.
Japanese cuisine lends itself especially well to drink pairings, and we were pampered with a selection of their six signature craft cocktails. My colleague who considers himself a whisky connoisseur was especially taken by the Mizuki sour (THB 520), made with shinju whisky, fresh lemon juice, yuzu syrup, angostura bitters, and egg whites; a dangerously smooth drink that still packed quite a punch. If you’re looking for something sweet, I’d recommend the Miso nori (THB 480), which elevates umeshu with hints of miso syrup; or for something a little more floral, the Murazaki bliss (THB 500), which is comprised of gin-infused butterfly pea, honey, tonic water, and umeshu for the requisite Japanese twist.
I was especially intrigued by the Rouge et salé (THB 500) which jumps on to the trend of adding bacon to counterbalance the drink, but it’s especially effective in this case as the drink has a generous pouring of pinot noir red wine, which works hand in hand with the raspberry puree for a sweet and dark finish. Friends of mine will know that I’m a huge proponent of ending a night with an espresso martini, and their Espresso sake-tini (THB 550) did not disappoint – all the smoothness of the original, paired with the refreshing aftertaste of the sake made for a transcendent experience – a descriptor that could be used to describe the entire night.
MASALA RECOMMENDS
The Salmon lava roll (THB 390), which comes with generous portions of fish roe, and was delectably tender and succulent. Make sure to order the Sayuri (THB 480), made with sayuri nigori sake, coconut syrup, and fresh lemon juice, for a wholly refreshing drink that goes down like a dream.
MAISON MIZUKI
Ground Floor, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit
189 Sukhumvit Road, Khlong Toei Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok 10110
Open daily from 5pm to 1am
Tel: 02 126 9999
Facebook: @MaisonMizuki
Instagram: @maisonmizukibkk
https://maisonmizukibangkok.com