Isle Of Enchantment
BY AYUSH MADAN
2024 will undoubtedly be remembered as the year my wanderlust truly blossomed. I travelled to four different countries – Vietnam, Japan, and Canada among them. Yet, despite all these adventures, it was Jeju Island, South Korea, that left the most lasting impression. Jeju Island, with its emerald waters, volcanic landscapes, and lush tangerine orchards, felt like a blend of Vancouver Island’s rugged beauty and the tropical allure of Hawaii. I took this journey with my grandmother, uncle, aunt, and baby cousin. With an age range from three to 65 years, our trip offers the perfect blueprint for Indian families of all ages who are eager to explore the wonders of the island.
ESSENTIALS:
THE JOY OF A JEJU ROAD TRIP
A rental car is essential on Jeju Island. While buses do run across the island, relying on public transportation – especially with a family – can be cumbersome. We rented a Kia right by the airport, conveniently reachable via a shuttle bus. Driving around the island felt like a road trip, with the added charm of old Bollywood music playing in the car, bringing back fond memories with my grandma.
EXPERIENCE:
SINCHANG WINDMILL COASTAL ROAD
Next, we drove to the Sinchang Windmill Coastal Road. You can park right next to the road and walk in a loop along the windmills, air was chilly in early April, but things began to warm up in the afternoon. Just a short drive from the road, we passed by rows of tangerine trees, their bright orange fruit dotting the landscape like little bursts of sunshine.
ATTRACTION:
GEUMNEUNG BEACH – A STUNNING FIRST IMPRESSION
Our first stop was Geumneung Beach, where I first laid eyes on the pristine, vivid-blue waters of Jeju Island. The water was cold but crystal clear, with sunlight glimmering off the surface in a stunning display. This is also where I first encountered Dol Hareubang, Jeju’s iconic ‘Stone Grandfather’ statues made from volcanic rock. These statues hold deep cultural significance, believed to be guardians of the island.
CULTURAL HIGHLIGHT:
HANYEOK DIVERS
Along the coastal road, I learned about the Haenyeo Divers of Jeju, legendary women who have free-dived into the ocean’s depths for centuries, hunting for seafood like crabs, octopus, and abalone with nothing more than a pair of goggles. These women, often in their 60s or older, spend hours underwater, practising sustainable fishing to protect the ocean for future generations. The Haenyeo are more than just divers; they are the soul of Jeju Island, embodying the island’s deep connection to the sea and its rich heritage.
ATTRACTION:
SEOGWIPOOLLE MARKET – A FEAST FOR THE SENSES
After checking into the Hotel Casa Loma and freshening up, we were eager to explore the famous Seogwipo Olle Market.
Established in the 1960s, this bustling market is a feast for the senses, with mouthwatering smells and vibrant sights at every turn. Stalls lined both sides of the street, offering a variety of Korean staples, evening. The stew is complemented by a variety of from snacks like tteokbokki and corn dogs to speciality items like Korean black pork and lobster. After sampling some street treats, kimchi, we dined at Jo-rim Myung-ga, a hidden gem just a block away, which was a culinary highlight.
FOOD EXPERIENCE:
KOREAN MAEUNTANG – A SPICY DELIGHT
A must-try is the hearty and flavourful Korean maeuntang, a spicy fish stew that takes centre stage in traditional Korean dining. Made with fresh fish, vegetables, tofu, and fiery red chilli paste (gochujang), maeuntang offers a robust and comforting flavour with a hint of the sea – an ideal dish to savour on a cool Jeju banchan (side dishes), including kongnamul muchim (soybean sprout salad), myulchi bokkeum (sweet-savoury glazed anchovies), and gim (roasted seaweed sheets). This communal meal embodies the essence of Korean dining – diverse, flavourful, and deeply satisfying.
ATTRACTION:
CHEONJIYEON WATERFALLS – NATURE’S MAJESTY DISPLAYED
Our second day began with a visit to the Cheonjiyeon Waterfalls, a must-see on our itinerary. The three waterfalls are majestic, cascading down from heights of up to 22 metres into a serene basin below. Surrounded by ancient forest, the walk down to the observation deck brings you close enough to feel the mist from the falls. Despite the presence of other tourists, the area maintained a sense of tranquillity, making it a refreshing start to the day.
EXPERIENCE:
OSULLOC TEA MUSEUM – A CAFÉ CULTURE DELIGHT
No visit to Korea is complete without experiencing its vibrant café culture, where artistry meets indulgence. At the Osulloc Tea Museum, we enjoyed specialty pastries and drinks that perfectly capture the spirit of Korean confectionery, spanning beautifully-layered Baumkuchen with soft serve, to a matcha latte with matcha ice cream to pair. The museum itself is a vibrant and happening spot, with conveyor belts carrying bags of tea along the ceiling—a whimsical touch that adds to the charm. It’s also a great place to pick up snacks and souvenirs, including matcha grown right on the museum’s tea fields. Right next door is the iconic Innisfree Jeju House where you can make handmade soaps and stock up on facemasks and other skincare products.
ATTRACTION:
JUSANGJEOLLIDAE – NATURE’S MASTERPIECE
After the museum, we embarked on an hour-long cruise around the island, departing from the Sangbangsan Mountain Cruiseterminal. The cruise took us through the UNESCO geopark, showcasing unique rock formations along Jeju’s southeastern coast. Although the guided tour was in Korean, the lively atmosphere on board – complete with music and dancing – made it a memorable experience. In fact, we even caught an incredible glimpse of a pod of dolphins swimming alongside our ship. We then visited Jusangjeollidae, a national monument and one of the most geographically-fascinating locations on the island. The cliff face, formed by rapidly-cooled lava, features striking rectangular rock formations that took my breath away.
FOOD EXPERIENCE:
KOREAN BARBECUE WITH JEJU BLACK PORK
No visit to Jeju Island is complete without indulging in a traditional Korean barbecue featuring the island’s iconic black pork (heuk dwaeji). This local delicacy is renowned for its rich flavour and tender texture, setting it apart from regular pork. We dined at Nandrebadang, a popular spot among local bloggers, where the thick cuts of black pork and juicy local shrimp were grilled to perfection over a hot outdoor grill as the sun set. Accompanied by a variety of banchan, including spicy kimchi and fresh vegetables, this meal was a true feast, warming both body and soul on a chilly evening.
ADVENTURE:
SEONGSAN ILCHULBONG – A HIKE TO REMEMBER
On our final day, we split up to explore different parts of the island. While my family visited Aqua Planet, the local aquarium, I chose to hike up Seongsan Ilchulbong, a 180-meter peak with sweeping views of the East coast. The hike, though steep at times, was rewarding, with breathtaking vistas at the summit.
ATTRACTION:
ECOLAND – A FAIRY TALE PARK
Our last stop was Ecoland, a bucolic park accessible only via train. This fairy-tale dreamland features four stations, each with unique attractions like a mini Hobbiton and lavender fields that stretch out visitors to walk back and explore the park’s beauty at a leisurely pace. With its enchanting music, whimsical atmosphere, and delightful children or a partner.
FAVOURITE ATTRACTION:
MAZELAND – AN ENCHANTING CHALLENGE
Of all the attractions on Jeju, my favourite was Mazeland. This theme park offers three main mazes made of hedges and stone, providing a challenging yet fun experience for visitors of all ages. The Wind Maze,Women’s Maze, and Whinstone Maze each present their own unique challenges, with the latter requiring our combined efforts to solve. The mazes are surrounded by lush greenery and a misty atmosphere that reminds me of a scene from a Studio Ghibli film – mysterious and enchanting. Upon completing the third maze, you can ring a silver bell to celebrate your victory. For those seeking even more adventure, a beautiful walk to the west of the park leads to the fourth maze: the Dream Maze.
CONCLUSION:
THE JEJU ISLAND EXPERIENCE
Jeju Island is a place where natural beauty, rich culture, and unforgettable experiences come together to create a truly unique destination. Whether you’re exploring the mazes at Mazeland, hiking up Seongsan Ilchulbong, or indulging in the island’s iconic black pork, Jeju offers something for everyone. My journey to Jeju was more than just a trip; it was an adventure that will stay with me forever. If you’re looking for a travel destination that blends untouched nature with excitement, Jeju Island should be at the top of your list.