Savor the regal flavors of Indian firepit gastronomy
By Ayush Madan
Jharokha is a Sanskrit word which translates to ‘palace window’. The royals of the past would come to their jharokha for Darshan, a time when the masses could gather and greet their monarch.
FIRST IMPRESSIONS
Inspired by the historic polo clubs of Rajasthan, Jharokha features a mahogany interior embellished with timeless leather upholstery. The walls are decorated with vibrant Mughal-style illustrations of flowers and peacocks, and my favorite touch was the small jharokha windows which found their way into every corner of the restaurant.
Through the floor-to-ceiling windows of the restaurant, I had a bird’s eye view of the city. I peered down at a swarm of people gathering to pray at the Erawan Shrine directly below me. To my right were the BTS walkway and sidewalk, each buzzing and busy with foot traffic. But inside, I was calm and relaxed, gold cutlery in hand, listening to soft ambient music as I took in the alluring atmosphere.
FOOD AND DRINK
Under the guidance of Executive Chef Sanket Hoskote, Jharokha was inspired by the fireside cooking traditions of Indian royalty following their hunts. Beyond its literal meaning, Jharokha prides itself on being a gateway to the soul of Indian cuisine. Many of the ingredients used like the basmati rice, kasuri methi, saffron, and ghee are imported directly from India. The restaurant also offers halal meat and seafood, accommodating different dietary preferences.
Our amuse bouche was the Bhuna Kaleji (THB 350), an ornate and crispy rose shaped cookie with a savory chicken pâté filling – an excellent start to the feast to come. It also paired well with the Gangu Bai Tangy (THB 320), a citrusy and fresh tequila-based cocktail with house made tamarind syrup. The next appetizer was Bheja Pav (THB 490), which featured a deliciously spiced goat brain masala with crispy potato topping served on a pain perdu base. This being my first time tasting brain, I was surprised at how well the dish worked texturally, and any initial reservations I had quickly disappeared after the first bite.
Cooked in the firepit, the first main we were served was the Himalayan Gucchi & Khumb (THB 450). Complemented by a creamy morel Yakhni sauce from Kashmir, the main star of the dish is the stuffed king oyster mushroom. Marinated in butter cream and grilled to perfection in the KOPA oven, these king oyster mushrooms were the best mushrooms I have ever tasted. Other vegetarian options I enjoyed included the Daal Jharokha (THB 390) with their Garlic Naan (THB 120), because sometimes you just cannot beat the basics.
The Achari Paneer (THB 400) was another savoury and classic dish that tasted amazing with a side of Basmati Rice (THB 120).
Now for the real feast! The signature Sigdiwala Murgh (THB 900) was served on a large wooden platter, featuring a whole roasted organic chicken; pickled pears; a side of carrots, tomatoes, and fennel salad; and of course, a generous amount of pudine ki chutney. The chicken had a beautiful crispy brown crust formed on the outside, and when I tore it open, it was steaming and moist on the inside. This is in big part thanks to the state-of-the-art wood-fire KOPA oven, which locks in the flavors of the chicken at high temperatures and results in more succulent meat.
Our presenter’s favorite dessert was the sweet and spicy Amrood Sorbet (THB 190) with a pink guava base flavoured with chilli and salt. But my favourite was the iconic Kesar Falooda (THB 350) which was also featured in our Bangkok kulfi roundup. This dish featured the most stunning presentation, with the rose-flavored and rose-shaped ice-cream in the centre, surrounded by saffron milk and garnished with basil seeds. The ice-cream was mouthwateringly tasty, and the saffron milk was creamy and comforting – a fitting end to the meal.
MASALA RECOMMENDS
Chutneys Set (THB 350) served with crispy lotus root, carrot, radish, cucumber, and baby naan.
Even if you are not particularly famished, coming to Jharokha is worth it just for their phenomenal chutney set. All 5 chutneys are made fresh in-house, and are beautifully presented in a thali with chips and naan to dip. My favorites include the Baingan Chokha, a charcoal smoked eggplant chutney which I much prefer to bhartha; the spicy Chilli Hari Mirch Ki Chutney made with fermented green chillies with its heat beautifully balanced by a goat cheese infusion; the sweet Aamshotto made with candied mango, dates, fennel, and jaggery. Each and every chutney was packed with flavour and I had to restrain myself to save room for the other dishes. This thali and a cup of hot chai would be my ideal high tea.
JHAROKHA BY INDUS
Address: 494 Erawan Bangkok Building, 2nd Floor, Ploenchit Road, Lumpini, Pathum Wan, Bangkok 10330.
Open Tues – Sun, 12pm – 10pm
Tel: +66829973399
