Feast like a king.

By: Aiden Jewelle Gonzales

Living in the gastronomic hub that is Thailand, it’s easy to take for granted the sheer variety of options available for discerning foodies, whether you’re hoping to sup like a local or be wined and dined like royalty. And when it comes to the latter, I didn’t think there was much left that could surprise me, but Tambu, tucked away in the island paradise that is Phuket, proved me wrong. One of the newer entrants in Phuket’s gourmet scene, Tambu has made a name for itself with its charcoal-based dishes, literally kindling the flames of artistry with their progressive Indian cuisine. Led by Iron Chef winner Saurabh Sachdeva, the restaurant promises to tell you a compelling gastronomic tale set in the times of the Mughal royalty of old, starring premium ingredients and open-flame antics. Suffice to say, it gave new meaning to the phrase, “dinner and a show” – or in my case, lunch and a (smoke) show.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

Nestled within the Avista Hideaway Phuket Patong – MGallery hotel, Tambu, which means ‘tent’ in Hindi and is a reference to the Mughal-era ‘tented palaces’, lives up to its name before you even enter. Ringed by stunning forest views and glimpses of the Andaman sea, an opulent marquis greets you, with a double canopy hinting at the capacious space and vaulted roof within. Having visited just before Holi, we were welcomed by a refreshing glass of thandai poured from a copper cup, while attentive staff offered us an artistic tray of coloured powders in case we wanted to partake in the festivities and gently mark each other with colours.

This attention to detail continues inside, where resplendent paintings referencing Mughal traditions line the canvas walls, while a crystal chandelier hangs from the tent’s peak, ringed by wooden fans providing an ample breeze. Lavish seating arrangements abound, with mango-yellow furnishings on wooden chairs and marble tabletops in teal drawing the eye to the handpainted, gold showplates made by an artisan from Delhi. The overall impression is one of olde-worlde luxury. Open for dinner every day, the tent’s panels are usually drawn up to give you a panoramic view of Phuket’s stunning sunsets; but as I had visited for lunch, the tent was closed to the elements while still taking advantage of the view, giving you modern amenities with traditional opulence.

 

 

 

 

 

FOOD AND DRINK

When it comes to innovation, Tambu is literally blazing a trail thanks to Chef Saurabh Sachdeva, of Iron Chef Thailand fame, and who was mentored by a Michelin-starred chef, thus bringing elevated techniques to the smoky flavours and centuries-old tradition found in Mughal cuisine. I was especially excited to try their offerings, which includes an à la carte menu as well as their Taste of Tambu tasting menus, with both vegetarian (THB 2,790++ per person) and seafood and meat (THB 2,790++ per person) options. I would highly suggest opting for the tasting menu to truly enjoy the full depth and breadth of flavour that they offer, together with their Wine Pairing (THB 2,490++ per person), curated by a sommelier who ensured that each label brought out flavour notes in the dishes that you wouldn’t taste otherwise. 

Our culinary journey started with a welcome glass of champagne, which was served to us in the form of an exciting ‘smoke’ show using liquid nitrogen; a heart-racing start to a delicious meal. The wine was served in artisanal Gabriel-Glas glasses, which I was told can hold liquid nitrogen without cracking. The Taste of Tambu menu’s prologue is comprised of their ‘street saga’ dishes, spanning a melt-in- your-mouth Delhi treat, a yellow lentil sphere in the form of their Ram Laddoo, with the classic mint and tamarind chutneys to pair; and their Spiced beetroot chop with raw papaya relish and figs to offset the deliciously earthy flavours, a snack that hails from Calcutta. For the full elevated street food experience, we were then served their Delhi ki chaat, also from Delhi, which was deftly made tableside in a ‘cart,’ during which they walked us through every step of its construction. Different textures of yoghurt, from yoghurt ‘snow’ made with liquid nitrogen and lashings of the more classic yoghurt drizzle, are mixed with mint, cilantro, and pops of sweetness in the form of pomegranate seeds, and are served on a bed of a single Japanese Shiso leaf, making for a textural treat that was almost too pretty to eat.

 

 

 

 

 

Next, we tucked into their warm appetisers, starting with the Butter garlic andaman prawns, made with brown garlic and steeped in flavour, and still served in the Jumbo prawn shell to retain all the juices. It’s served with an innovative Makkai avocado ‘toast’, a cracker with ‘Tambu’ stamped on it for extra artistry. For the vegetarians, you’re served a beautifully- plated Asparagus & cheese shammi, which I was told was especially moreish. Their Keema kulcha, which came next, was definitely a unanimous favourite.The Pepper fry crab, served on a mini grill with a small piece of activated charcoal so your ears can feast on the sizzle before you even take a bite, was sublime. With Kopa-oven smoked bread, curry leaves, and crabs from the Southeast coast, it truly highlights the best in Indian coastal cuisine. The Jakhiya aloo from the vegetarian menu was equally sizzling hot and delightful, a testament to the chefs’ skills.

 

 

 

 

 

Although we were approaching full, we had yet to tuck into the mains, aptly called A Thali Feast. Their spread of signature curries and rice consisted of Old delhi butter chicken made with the perfect, creamy texture; a surprisingly light Coconut prawn moilee to cut through the heaviness; aromatic Dum murgh biryani to pair, and a selection of piping-hot Tandoori breads. This was a meal in itself, but if you’re craving more, you can add Lamb chop burrah (Add on for THB 450) or Handkerchief bread (Add on for THB 150) so you can eat till you’re replete. As usual, the vegetarian options were equally flavourful and worth a try even if you’re not veg.

Finally, the Crown dessert, a desi twist on the classic crème brulee, was comprised of kesar thandai, served with a pistachio cookie with raspberry and mango dollops – truly the crowning glory of a wholly delicious meal.

MASALA RECOMMENDS

The Keema kulcha, with ghee-roasted mutton (or wild mushrooms for the vegetarians), which is considered a signature favourite of Tambu’s guests. Served in a steamed kulcha bun with crisp potato salli for texture, this South Indian bite was sublime, and was served with handcrafted plates from Delhi so that you can treat your eyes as well as your palate.

TAMBU

Avista Hideaway Phuket Patong 39/9 Muen Ngern Road, Patong District, Amphur Kathu, Phuket, Thailand 83150

Open Daily from 6pm to 11pm; Open every Sunday lunch time from 12pm till 2.30pm

Tel: 095 834 7208

Instagram: @tambuphuket

www.tambuphuket.com