The Riviera meets the River of Kings in sophisticated splendour.

By Aiden Jewelle Gonzales

Every time I visit the eminently-elegant Capella Bangkok, I’m immediately ensconced in their distinctive point of view; a culture that runs deep in the hotel’s veins, from its luxe furnishings, carefully-selected artwork, attention to detail, and of course, their culinary offerings that are sure to delight gourmands everywhere. Côte by Mauro Colagreco, perched on the 2nd floor of the hotel with panoramic views of the River of Kings, continues this philosophy of curated escapism. 

True to its name, Côte by Mauro Colagreco is the first Southeast-Asian outpost of Chef Mauro Colagreco, of three-Michelin-starred Mir Azure fame; and its impeccable service, inspired dishes, and stunning interiors have already netted the restaurant its own Michelin star for three years running. The restaurant is led by Chef Davide Garavaglia and restaurant manager Thibaud Charlemarty, both of whom have won plenty of accolades in their own right, including the Michelin Guide Thailand Young Chef Award 2023 and the Michelin Guide Service Award 2022, respectively. 

Just as in Mir Azur, Chef Mauro Colagreco has brought his own distinctive flair and culinary refinement to the restaurant, as well as his passion for local influences, all of which has led to him being voted as “The Best Chef in the World” by Le Chef Compilation 2019. Even with so many celebrated names behind it, I was pleasantly surprised that Côte blew past my expectations, which were already sky-high. 

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

The restaurant was inspired, or so the story goes, by “the sound of water and the colour of light,” and this can be seen in its end-to-end windows that allow sunlight to spill into the sophisticated space, where soothing shades of ivory and wood exude a calm reminiscent to waves lapping on a beach. Staff attentively and warmly ushered us to our seats, where they explained that the stunning cerulean show plates, with a mesmerising line of white through each of them, reflected the view of the Mediterranean Sea that one can see from Mir Azure. As I sipped on a welcome cocktail, comprised of a pleasant mix of berries and champagne, I could feel myself slipping into the oasis of peace that Capella Bangkok tries to curate in all their experiences; one where all your troubles are left at the door and you can simply enjoy the moment. 

FOOD AND DRINK

Côte by Mauro Colagreco has a range of tasting menus for lunch and dinner, including their 5-course Dimanche Midi set (THB 4,100 per adult, THB 2,050 per child between 6-12 years old) which was just launched this year, which focuses on what is considered “the most important meal of the week” in many cultures; the Sunday lunch shared with family. Definitely a must-try for those who want a convivial and indulgent end to their weekend. However, we opted for their four-course Escapade Lunch (THB 2,250), replete with an extra course to give us a peek into what else we could order. A surprise menu, guests are served delights curated by the chef himself, as long as they inform the staff of their dietary requirements. Every dish is brimming with fresh Mediterranean flavours but with nods to Thailand’s rich culinary history with their use of local ingredients.  No French meal can start without a selection of melt-in-your-mouth amuse bouches, comprised of Cuttlefish with potato tarte, served with a bay leaf on top, which is a delicious mouthful of the flavours of the sea, with enough acidity to cut through the brininess. The Bonito tartare, comprised of tuna served in tapioca chips and marinated in yuzu and ponzo gel, was a personal favourite, especially as I can’t resist fresh tuna and the distinctive taste of yuzu. For fans of seafood, make sure to try the Codfish donut, which shows off the versatility of codfish in different textures and presentation, with Oscietra caviar on top for an indulgent finish. Finally, for a hint of sweetness, the Amaranth cracker, with lado and butter, will surely whet your appetite for what’s to come. 

The first course, Hamachi ‘tartare’ with caviar and raw red papaya, encapsulated the ethos of the restaurant in a single dish: it showcased local ingredients and sensibilities, with its combination of salty and sweet elements, while allowing the Mediterranean techniques and flavours to shine. Reminiscent of a flower in bloom, it was almost too beautiful to eat, but the first bite was worth it – refreshing and delightful, the crystal caviar was the perfect addition to balance the sweetness of the fruit. 

I’ve loved scallops ever since my late introduction to them in university, and the next dish, the Scallops with fennel and blood orange, reminded me all over again of why I fell in love with this bivalve, if cooked right. Buttery with a hint of sweetness, the mild taste of the scallops was the perfect vehicle for the topping of dill and black orange powder, which added zest to the whole dish, which was light in the best way. For a more substantial option, the next course, the Trofie pasta comprised of langoustine and black sesame, was heartwarming and simple, but still had enough complexity of flavour to keep it interesting. A dish from the Sunday lunch menu, it was enough to convince me that their Dimanche Midi set is one that I’ll surely come back for.  

Our penultimate dish was Guinea fowl with salsify and black truffle, which was an epicurean dream in more ways than one. Stuffed with guinea fowl liver with lashings of a classic French sauce comprised of fois gras and chicken stock, the meat had more substantial flavour than chicken, but was still light enough for me to consume the whole dish in record time. Served with Brussel sprouts, figs, and salsify (an edible root with a distinctive taste), as well as generous flakes of black truffle shaved tableside, the entire dish is the epitome of luxury. 

Finally, end your meal with their dessert, an unusual combination of Coconut ice cream, black sesame sponge, and madras curry, which truly showcased the chef’s innovative eye for mixing flavours. Despite the interesting inclusion of madras curry, its piquant flavour paired perfectly with the creaminess of the coconut; a delightful surprise. Of course, we were also served a plate of petit-fours as a final surprise, comprising of a cinnamon stick with liquorice, an early grey macaron, choux cream with pineapple from Phuket, and chocolate filled with coffee cream – all of them entirely sublime and the perfect ending to our meal. 

For those who enjoy wine with your meals (like me), make sure to opt for their Wine Pairing (THB 2,000 for 4 tasting portions), which were handpicked by their expert sommelier, and each of which brings out tasting notes in the dishes that you wouldn’t have discovered otherwise. I especially loved the Kracher & Sohm Single Vineyard Grüner Veltliner from Austria, which was a refreshing start when paired along with the Hamachi tartare.

MASALA RECOMMENDS

While the menu is a surprise, make sure to tuck into their Pain de partage with gusto. Meaning “bread to share,” this delightful loaf is Chef Mauro’s signature bread, and is indescribable moreish, especially when paired with their ginger menton lemon-flavoured olive oil, as well as an ode to bread from Pablo Neruda to get you in the mood.

CÔTE BY MAURO COLAGRECO 

2nd floor, Capella Bangkok

300/2 Charoenkrung Road, 

Yannawa, Sathorn, 

Bangkok 10120

Tel: 02 098 3888 

Facebook:  cote.bangkok 

www.capellahotels.com