Terrace of Amore

BY MAHMOOD HOSSAIN

American food journalist Matt Goulding once said, “Italian cuisine is the most famous and beloved cuisine in the world for a reason. Accessible, comforting, seemingly simple but endlessly delicious, it never disappoints, just as it seems to never change.” Italian food has evoked passion and comforted me for as long as I can remember. For us desis, there is a familiarity with the way Italians celebrate their meals. In Italy, food is an expression of love through the way it is prepared, cooked, served and eaten. They take their time, savour every bite of food and sip of wine, and reflect on life’s little pleasures, cherishing every moment. Calling the process a true art cannot justify the pure joy and gratification it provides.

Ciao Terrazza at the Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok embraces this particular culinary culture and Italy’s age-old traditions. Sitting prettily next to the Chao Phraya River, the restaurant warmly welcomes guests on a seasonal basis to taste modern re-interpretations of alfresco Italian and Mediterranean dishes. The authenticity of its creations, straight from its impeccably- run kitchen, had me closing my eyes, arching my eyebrows, and giving a ‘chef’s kiss’ – or as the Italians call it, the perfetto gesture – each time I took a bite. Each dish had such a quintessential homemade quality that I could almost hear someone’s nonna (grandmother) in the background passionately shouting, “Mangia! Mangia!” Although reality painted a slightly different, albeit still enjoyable picture, the Thai-Italian Chef Dario Busnelli continues to flawlessly blend the authenticity of an Italian kitchen and Asian delicacies.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

It is only appropriate for an Italian restaurant that infuses the essence of the Mediterranean to be situated next to a body of water like the River of Kings. It enhances the romance and seduces every one of our senses. Ciao Terrazza’s sophisticated ambience, décor, and spectacular views capture the elegance of a re ned dining experience. My colleague and I were fortunate enough to be seated a couple of feet from the river; the surroundings were beautifully lit, framing the stunning views in nearly every direction. To our left was the glow and glamour of riverside properties, and to the right was The Authors’ Lounge of the hotel, highlighting the old-world charm and architectural design reminiscent of the late 1800s. 

FOOD & DRINKS

Before indulging in the details of this delicious menu, it is important to note that the Mediterranean diet is regarded as one of the healthiest diets in the world, while Italian cuisine, specifically, will never leave you with a bored palate. The region’s recipes are based mainly on vegetables and fruits, while various pastas provide complex carbohydrates to refuel your body’s energy. Meanwhile, alongside milk and yoghurt; meat (preferably lean), sh, and eggs play a smaller yet significant role in each dish. In other words, every ingredient is carefully selected to produce a complete and well- balanced meal, an approach this restaurant did not lack.

Our evening was blessed with some of  the most beautifully plated Italian food I have had in Bangkok – a presentation that doesn’t play to the strings of pretentiousness, concealing the quality of food with artistic expression. No, these plates made clear, without a doubt, that the masterpiece is the food itself. From the unquestionable freshness of each ingredient to the flawless balance of flavours, each item chosen for this evening meal was superb. The first of this appreciation came in the form of the Crudo di tonno Akami avocado e zuppetta fredda di pomodoro (THB 1,490), which consisted of finely-carved Japanese Akami tuna, avocado timbale, yuzu pearls and smoked caviar. While this whetted my appetite, the Vellutata di zucca capasanta e riduzione molluschi (THB 820), velvety pumpkin soup with Hokkaido scallop, fregula and crustacean reduction, swayed my tastebuds to dance to the silkiest of ballads.

The experience was elevated by the Spaghetti alla chitarra con vongole (THB 950), hand- pulled ‘spaghetti alla chitarra’ (guitar pasta from Abruzzo, Italy) with imported carpet clams sautéed in white wine and fresh Mediterranean herbs. Every ingredient, like every other recipe from the menu, seemed to have struck perfect harmony. The seafood was of the highest standards, which we also saw in the Raviolo aperto alle erbe casseruola di mare (THB 1,790), an open raviolo with garden herbs and a frutti di mare (seafood) casserole, with sweet peas and coral. The Mediterranean delights took a spicier turn with the Tonnarelli ubriachi al pepe di Kampot gambero rosso di Mazara (THB 1,500), the restaurant’s take on drunken noodles with tonnarelli pasta, commonly used for cacio e pepe. Kampot black pepper, raw Sicilian prawns, fresh green pepper, and a kafir lime leaf and oyster emulsion completed this sublime dish. 

The meat dishes also had their time in the sunset. How could we not indulge in slices of pizza at a trattoria-styled establishment? The Ciao (THB 920) pizza is a gift for the gods. Read that again. I imagine if the Ancient Romans paid tribute to Ceres – goddess of agriculture and the harvest – it would be in the form of 24-month-aged San Daniele ham, truf e mascarpone, mozzarella cheese, wild arugula, poached gs, tomato con t and Parmigiano Reggiano. I’m salivating as I reminisce; surely, any deity would share my sentiments. Sending us to a tender and juicier embrace was the Duo di agnello con carré d’arrosto e lombo in crosta alle erbe ni (THB 2,390), a mouthwatering duo of lamb with roasted rack and herbs-crusted loin with thyme jus, eggplant fondant, burnt bell pepper and potato rosette. To top our splendid evening by the river,good things came in threes. The kitchen produced a sweet ending with the Torta di mela di nonna Rosa, ‘Nonna Rossa’s’ ricotta and apple cake with crème anglaise and bourbon vanilla gelato; Coppa Amarena e meringa, mascarpone gelato with Amarena cherries, meringue and sugar cane Arlette; and Delizia d’Amal , a classic limoncello baba with wild berries, vanilla whipped cream and lemon sorbet (all priced at THB 490). The desserts were wonderfully light and had the ideal amount of sweetness complemented by the tartness of certain citrusy ingredients. Truly, Ciao Terrazza is the graceful execution of Italian Mediterranean cuisine by the River of Kings, and a dining experience worth boasting about.

MASALA RECOMMENDS

If I were to be wooed by any of the dishes on this menu, it would be the Bottoni al granchio e capa santa (THB 1,600). The scrumptious combination of Hokkaido scallop, spider crab ravioli, and a trio of caviar, champagne sauce, and crustacean reduction ushered me into pure bliss. Each bite left me speechless, and I was overwhelmed by the fragrance and flavours of each morsel, which had a vice grip on my tastebuds. This dish was the epitome of what this restaurant has to offer: it not only meets the expectations of fine dining, but also delivers a sense of fulfillment beyond measure.

CIAO TERRAZZA
Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok
48 Oriental Avenue, Bangkok 10500
Tel: 02 659 9000
Facebook:@MandarinOrientalBangkok
Instagram: @mo_bangkok
www.mandarinoriental.com/en/bangkok/chao-phraya-river/dine/ciao-terraza