Tapori is a journey through India’s rich and uncharted territories of generational recipes.
By: Mahmood Hossain
Passion projects are the most personal representation of artists and their respective experiences. They are not to cater to the masses, but a gift to oneself; to satisfy the ego without evoking arrogance. However, for hospitality veteran Rohit Sharma, Chef Patron of Tapori, the passion for unexplored Indian cuisine needed to be expressed, and more importantly, shared with the rest of us city-dwelling food enthusiasts. Tapori, located in Sukhumvit Soi 47, was inspired by Rohit’s travels across India, embracing traditional recipes from various regions. Of the 300 dishes that he’d had the pleasure of trying in his lifetime, 29 of them have been beautifully plated and made available at Tapori.
While my colleague and I would have loved to join in the journey of 300 dishes, a select few of the lot would have to do on this particular visit to Tapori. Alongside its delectable dishes, the restaurant’s vibrant atmosphere and colourful interior provide a memorable dining experience. Like the items on the menu, the walls, ceiling, lighting, and tables presented pieces of art from various regions of India.
FIRST IMPRESSIONS
Tapori delivers on the authentic Indian cuisine experience, driven by its eclectic mix of modern elements and the rich artistry of Indian design, creating a space for a sophisticated warm welcome and paying homage to the country’s artistic heritage. The entrance to the restaurant itself is a sight to behold, as guests walk through a rustic Rajasthani wooden door and step into a world of Warli patterns, tribal motifs of Bastar, and Pichwai art. Accentuating the décor is a hand-cut mirror mosaic of a peacock, layered on top of a 32-foot-long oil canvas. The seating arrangement has the comfort of a familial home, yet the environment of a bustling restaurant. Bubs, a secluded bar attached to the restaurant, à la speakeasy, provides imported spirits from India, enabling the experts behind the bar to concoct some of the most refreshing cocktails that pack a punch.
FOOD AND DRINKS
As mentioned, each dish represents the region it originates from. We were first introduced to what the restaurant recognises as a Sindhi brunch masterpiece. The Dal pakwan (THB 350) has been given some extra flair as dollops of coriander and date chutneys sit prettily on top of a crispy flatbread, which happens to serve as the roof of a medley of sweet, spicy and tangy lentils mixed with creamy yoghurt. One crack of the spoon and the mixed ingredients make for a very addictive combination.
From one daal to another, we dipped into a pool of boiled and baked whole wheat bread, paired with zesty lentils and fiery garlic relish in the form of Madhya Pradesh’s Dal bafla (THB 480). The carnival of flavours ran consistently, delivered in tantalising bursts within each dish, which brings us to our next dish, the Gobhi musallam (THB 380). This is Tapori’s take on the classic dish from Uttar Pradesh, comprising of a creamy roasted cauliflower with a whole roasted beetroot. I would label this as a ‘go-to choice’ for our only-veg readers. It will not disappoint.
Next, we travel north to Himachal Pradesh for their Siddu (THB 360). This breakfast staple from the northern mountains is composed of steamed buns, stuffed with lentils and served with zesty chilli-sesame and nutty flaxseed dips. If you desire a meatier bite, you can opt for the equally-delicious chicken version. The latter becomes a perfect segue into a dish from Maharashtra, the Kheema ghotala (THB 480). The taste of Mumbai and true tapori culture comes in a plate of spicy minced lamb (or beef), paired with the city’s signature bread, ladi pav. I’m not sure how many times we dipped into this particular dish, but it’s safe to say we drowned the bread in the kheema to no end. Equally scrumptious was the Tamil Nadu favourite, Kizhi parotta (THB 590). The mildly-spiced chicken and flaky flatbread (with an all-veg option) are wrapped in a banana leaf bundle and served with an onion yoghurt for a delicious and attractive package.
MASALA RECOMMENDS
For our very tasty finale, we were introduced to a legendary dessert from the royal kitchens of Awadh. We went back to Uttar
Pradesh for the menu’s Benami kheer (THB 350), the ‘pudding with no name.’ It was a pleasantly surprising bite, especially after discovering it possessed a secret ingredient. What it was, we can’t say; you’ll have to find out yourself. What we can disclose is that this is no ordinary or traditional kheer. The secret alone lands this dessert on the special ‘Masala Recommends’ spot, and is a must-try once you visit Tapori. Get ready to be perplexed while you succumb to its sweet seduction.
TAPORI
22/2 Soi 47, Khwaeng Khlong Tan
Nuea Watthana, Bangkok, Thailand 10110
Open daily from 5.30pm to 11pm
Tel: 083 945 8851 for Thai, 064 569 3798 for English
Instagram and Facebook: @taporibkk
