Immerse yourself in the timeless tastes of the Indus Valley Civilisation with Indus’ Mughlai-style cuisine.
By Aiden Jewelle Gonzales
In the centre of Bangkok’s relentless cosmopolitan hum, Sukhumvit 26 hides the gateway to an empire of yore within Indus, a restaurant which embraces the taste and feel of the eponymous Bronze Age civilisation, and has been dedicated to serving authentic Mughlai-style cuisine for the past 14 years. The best thing about the aesthetic of the restaurant when you walk in is that it channels the rough-hewn stone and brick of a homestead from the Indus valley, but still maintains the classic elegance of a fine-dining establishment with its royal blue accent walls and resplendent portraits of Indian nobility.
Dark wood furnishings add a touch of drama to the space, while end-to-end windows look out into a deceptively large garden that sprawls out towards the back of the establishment, perfect for hosting events of every size and description – including, I was intrigued to hear, several weddings. I was especially charmed by the soft amber glow of the string lights hung below the trees, transforming the copse into an ethereal woodland grove, one in which guests could eat al fresco if they so choose.
Food and Drink
As a restaurant that’s featured in the 2019 Michelin Guide Thailand and recipient of the Iron Chef Thailand Award, choosing what to order from the cornucopia on offer can often involve a mix of exhilaration and intimidation. Thankfully, you’re eased into the choice with a complimentary Pappadam and chutney set, the former perfectly crisp and the latter providing your choice of sweetness, salt, acidity or spice, depending on your mood. If you don’t know where to start, the menu points out which region each dish is from, together with a beautifully drawn map, so you can embark on a culinary journey across the Indus valley.
I recommend you start with the Papdi chaat (THB 200), whose crispy wafer shell balances a melt-in-your-mouth sunburst of flavour in the form of chickpeas, potatoes, and a hint of mint and tamarind. The Hara bhara kebab (THB 160 for two pieces), spherical disks of spinach, peas, potatoes and cheese enclosed by rice flakes, is crisp and spicy in equal measure, without being too oily. My runaway favourite vegetarian starter, however, was the Tandoori creamy broccoli (THB 200 for two pieces) which has generous heads of broccoli exquisitely roasted, the unique smokiness of the tandoor enhancing each creamy bite. Frankly, I couldn’t get enough.
No meal in Indus is complete without the Family naan (THB 400), an outsized masterpiece of piping hot deliciousness that supposedly serves a family of three or four, but looks big enough to feed a small army. Pair it with the Malabar prawn curry (THB 590), an addictive dish whose spice is offset by the coconut and hint of wild mango, the Butter chicken (THB 400), rich mouthfuls of delightfully tender morsels of chicken, or for vegetarians, the Paneer butter masala (THB 380), an indulgent pleasure that will surely leave you in a post-prandial stupor. If you prefer to relish your relish, the Khatte baingan (THB 320), composed of baby eggplant and sour yoghurt, is a recent addition that will hit that sweet spot – or that sour spot, as it may be. However, I have to say that my favourite accompaniment to the naan was the Daal makhani (THB 280), which was comfort food at its best and most flavourful. You can also opt for their aromatic Saffron rice (THB 200) if you want to balance the wealth of naan with something lighter.
Just in case you haven’t had your fill of cheese, the Paneer tiranga (THB 380), fresh from the tandoor, will fill your stomachs and your patriotic spirit with its tri-coloured chutneys, a reference to the Indian flag. For the meat lovers, definitely try the Mixed grill (THB 1290) platter, three tiers of your choice of tandoori tiger prawns, mutton seekh kebab, sea bass tikka, and kebab-e-malai, truly an embarrassment of riches for us carnivores. Leaving the best for last, don’t leave without trying Indus’ famed Raan (THB 550 for 150g), slow-cooked for seven hours to create a tender and juicy masterwork.
Despite having eaten your fill, you’ll manage to find space for dessert with such delights as the Angoori rasmalai (THB 140), an explosion of sweetness that you won’t be able to get enough of, and the Gulab Jamun, a soon-to-be-added menu item which is sure to be a hit with all. My favourite, however, was the Kulfi, which satisfied my perennial craving for something sweet and light, and which will also be added to the menu soon.
Before embarking on your culinary journey, whet your palate with your choice of Lassi (THB 140), smooth, rich and perfectly prepared – I highly recommend the mango. During your meal, you can enjoy an array of wines, beers, spirits or cocktails, though I especially liked the Lady Lying on Lemongrass (THB 300), an unusual tipple that combines Bacardi rum, peach, pineapple, basil and – for a Thai twist – lemongrass to extremely refreshing effect. After your meal, replete and satisfied, enjoy a comforting cup of their Signature Masala Chai (THB 140) which has healthy ayurvedic properties and is well, everyone’s cup of tea.
Catering
I was excited to learn that Indus also caters a myriad of events, with over 14 years of experience in both traditional and contemporary Indian dishes. Having sampled their sophisticated eye for both taste and presentation, and the healthy array of options available, I’m not surprised that they’re considered amongst the best caterers of Indian cuisine in the country. They cater for all sizes of weddings, corporate events, and cocktail parties, offering personalised service, exclusive buffets, and set and à la carte menus, using only the finest, freshest ingredients.
Indus
71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, Khlong Tan,
Khlong Toei, Bangkok 10110
Lunch: Open daily from 11.30am to 2.30pm
Dinner: Open daily from 6pm to 10.30pm
Tel: 086 339 8582
www.indusbangkok.com
