Authenticity on a roll!

By Aiden Jewelle Gonzales

It’s no secret that I adore Japanese cuisine – I may not be a keen connoisseur, but I’m certainly a keen consumer; give me authentic dishes and fresh ingredients and I’m there, my personal pair of chopsticks in hand. When I heard that Conrad Bangkok had launched a new menu for their acclaimed fine-dining Japanese restaurant, KiSara, I was intrigued.

Brought together by the team led by Chef Ryan Dadufalza, Conrad Bangkok’s Executive Chef who’d joined two years ago, the menu highlights his vast culinary expertise, spanning places such as the Six Senses Samui in Thailand; to Shangri-La Beijing in China; Shangri-La Singapore; and most recently, Conrad Osaka, in Japan. Having heard of his impressive culinary repertoire but also his focus on simplicity and authenticity, I was eager to try his take on Japanese cuisine.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

When you walk in, KiSara’s focus on Japanese heritage is clear from the beginning, with its mix of stone and hardwood floors, and a glut of natural wood accents, from the rafters to their furnishings. Despite this, it also incorporates design-forward aesthetics – large spherical stone structures greet you as you enter, and the entrance to their private rooms are at once cosy and artistically striking; reminiscent of slice-of-life scenes from animes of Studio Ghibli fame. The deceptively-large space is at once luxe yet warm and welcoming, with private rooms aplenty for events that can be tailored to your preferences.

Taking centre stage is a resplendent teppanyaki grill, with bar seating around it so you can get a prime view of the magic as it happens. Mouth-watering aromas from the grill filter through the air, making it hard to focus on anything else but the sizzling ingredients ready to be served piping hot – I certainly was ready to tuck right in!

FOOD AND DRINK

KiSara’s new menu focuses on seasonal flavours and local ingredients, with sublime cuts of fresh sashimi and sushi rolls showcasing the chefs’ expertise; dishes straight from the teppanyaki grill; curated lunch and teppanyaki sets; and of course, a range of Japanese wine and sake – music to my ears. Chef Ryan, a native of Guam who’s half-Guamanian and also a fellow kababayan (Filipino), thoughtfully walked me through the menu’s concept: “This is a Japanese restaurant, and fortunately for me, I had just been working in Japan,” he says with a laugh. “I’m fortunate to have a very strong team; despite not having a Japanese national chef with us, we’ve all worked with Japanese chefs before, so with the expertise of my team and some direction from myself, we were able to execute this menu.”

We started off with the Salmon avocado roll (THB 380), a work of art in itself, served over a bed of ice to keep it cool. An unusual preparation, with perfectly-balanced portions of salmon and Haas avocado surrounding a ring of Japanese rice, each roll looked like a stained glass masterpiece; almost too good to eat. But don’t hesitate to pop in a mouthful as they are just as satisfying as they look, simultaneously creamy and fresh, and truly showcasing the premium ingredients used. Next, we tucked into the Tempura moriawase (THB 580), a classic tempura mix comprised of Tiger prawn, whiting fish, seasonal mixed vegetables, radish, ginger, and tempura sauce; all perfectly crisp on the outside while still maintaining the flavours within.

If you’re visiting for lunch, I would suggest opting for the Mini don trio (THB 1,080), a set with just the right amount of dishes, consisting of mini grilled eel on rice, packed with flavour for such a delicate portion, with a soy-based glaze that added a touch of sweetness to the savoury mouthful; mini assorted tempura on rice, moreish and delicious; and mini sashimi on rice in refreshing, bite-sized portions, topped with succulent bursts of fish roe.

If you’re visiting for dinner, however, definitely try one of their larger dinner sets. I would recommend the Kissara dinner teppanyaki kaiseki, which starts at THB 2,680 depending on the main course that you choose. Each set comes with a plate of premium-grade tuna, Hamachi, and hotate sashimi, silken and impeccably sliced; as well as Chawanmushi, a Japanese savoury egg custard, with the quintessential velvety-smooth texture, and filled with shrimp, chicken, shiitake, and ginkgo nut. The set also comes with a seasonal plate of a selection of nine seasonal dishes; an embarrassment of riches that comes in a variety of flavours and preparations, but all delicious. In our selection, we feasted on prawns, grilled pork skewers, and a variety of fresh vegetables; filling in the extreme.

For the mains, we opted for their Japanese wagyu beef A4 tenderloin (150g) (THB 3,480), a premium-grade cut which Chef Ryan tells me they’re very proud of. “The Japanese beefis dangerously expensive,” he tells me with a rueful laugh, “but it’s recognised globally as the best of the best. It’s Wagyu beef produced in the Saga prefecture, and only a select few cows can attain Saga Beef status.” Melt-in-your-mouth, juicy, and with a well-rounded flavour that isn’t too overpowering, it was a definite highlight of the meal, and I would come back just for this.

But if you think you’ve indulged enough, there’s more! The set also includes their KiSara dessert plate, which includes a selection of their signature seasonal desserts, all of which are light and not too sweet. However, we were also treated to an extra dessert, the Teppan dorayaki (THB 350), a tower of small grilled sweet pancakes with red bean filling, an unusual dessert for me which is nevertheless very Japanese, and unsurprisingly delicious.

MASALA RECOMMENDS

The Osaka-style okonomiyaki (THB 450), a Japanese savoury ‘pancake’ that is a common street food in Osaka. This elevated version of the snack was topped with Hermes sauce, mayonnaise, bonito flakes, and generous portions of seafood or crispy pork which Chef Ryan said was their own innovative twist. Definitely one to order!

In Conversation with Chef Ryan Dadufalza

We spoke further with the Executive Chef of Conrad Bangkok, who gave us insight into his culinary philosophy of authenticity and consistency.

What inspired you to start cooking, and can you tell us a little about your previous professional experiences?

I was inspired to start cooking by a book called, The Making of a Chef: Mastering Heat at the Culinary Institute by Michael Ruhlman, in which he did an exposé on the inner workings of an amazing culinary school called The Culinary Institute of America (CIA). After reading this book, I was determined to go there. Eventually, I realised that dream, and I was the first person from Guam to graduate from CIA. Over the years, I’ve worked in Thailand, China, Singapore, Macau, Bali, Dubai, the Philippines, and Japan.

What kind of flavour profiles and cuisine do you like best, and why?

This answer has changed drastically throughout my career! [Laughs] When I was younger, I wanted to wow people with a lot of unique and creative dishes, whereas now, I’m more in tune with authenticity and replicating heritage dishes and classics. Instead of making ‘occasion’ meals, I want to focus on food that people would want to eat more often. Of course, there’s still room for creativity, but I think paying the utmost respect to the heritage of recipes is more intriguing for me at this stage in my career. There’s a deep connection between food and culture, which is just beautiful.

What new elements have you brought or do you hope to bring to KiSara’s culinary direction?

We’re focusing on authenticity and paying respect to the Japanese culinary traditions. We do leave room for creativity in the menu, but mostly, I want to represent and replicate the flavours of Japan. Moving forward, I also want to focus on consistency. If a guest comes on a Monday, it should be as good as when they come on a Friday – that’s what’s most important to me.

KISARA
Level 3, Conrad Bangkok 87/3 Wireless Road, Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330, Thailand
Open daily for lunch from 11.30am to 2.30pm | Open daily for dinner from 6pm to 10pm
Tel: 02 690 9233 Instagram: @conradbangkokhotel | www.conradbangkok.shop/kisara/