Curry on the celebrations!
By Shaan Bajaj
When I think of Indian food, it is as though time slows down and all I can imagine is tearing into a soft, piping-hot naan, and dipping it into a spicy, creamy, curry, preferably with paneer that melts in your mouth. Even the mention of Indian spices like red chilli powder, saffron, turmeric, and cardamom powder always evokes a vivid image, and you can almost taste the explosion of flavours on your tongue. Some days my dreams do come true, and my visit to Jashn was one of those lucky days. They laid out a feast fit for a king or queen, highlighting heritage dishes from Awadh to the Arabian Peninsula.
It is the newest addition in a growing collection of eateries including Benaras, headed by food enthusiasts Sanjeev Maini and Charanjeet Singh (C.J). The menu was conceptualised by Chef Sudipto Bhattacharya, who uses modern cooking techniques and traditional flavours to add his own twist on these historical recipes. The coming together of these culinary cultures offer a physical representation of what royal kitchens tasted like, taking you to a space that no longer exists. Make your visit extra special over weekends, with a live performance from Ms. Leen, who will serenade you throughout your meal.
FIRST IMPRESSIONS
The interior of the restaurant is bathed in a rich royal blue, while the ceiling is lined with geometrical patterns from Islamic architecture, making me feel as though I stepped into a restaurant of a different era. There are a variety of options when choosing a seat; during my visit, I opted for a comfy booth against the wall. The friendly staff ushered me in and provided me with historical anecdotes and the meaning behind the word Jashn. It stems from the Persian language and translates into celebration, a word that adequately captures the atmosphere of the space.
FOOD AND DRINK
As I sipped on a comforting mug of masala chai, plate upon plate of appetisers were set in front of me. We chose to start with their Sunehri khasta (THB 375), a dish similar to a spring roll, packed with vegetables and rolled in sevian, giving it a crispy outer layer. While I savoured that, the non-vegetarians around me dug into a plate of Raunaq-e-seekh (THB 495), made from tender minced lamb. They informed me that it was perfectly spiced, and tasted particularly good with fresh coriander chutney. I was especially eager to try the Teh te teh kebab (THB 475) when I laid my eyes on the three-layer paneer stack, and as I sliced into it to take a mouthful, I was hit with a subtle spice that cut through the creamy paneer. For an added Indian kick, have it with the pickled onions served on the side. Another dish that looked intriguing was their Truffle malai tikka (THB 495), made with chicken. My colleagues praised how it melts in your mouth, with the truffle adding extra creaminess and its distinctive flavour to the dish, without being overpowering.
As we finished snacking on our appetisers, a selection of rotis including Bakarkhani, ultey tawey ke parathey (THB 120), Butter naan (THB 80), and Laccha paratha and mint paratha (THB 80) was placed on the table. The bakarkhani roti is a Mughlai speciality and one I would recommend trying, often eaten as a sweet bread with chai, or alternatively, with curries like I did. I also particularly enjoyed their laccha paratha as it was flaky yet soft. The non-vegetarians were treated to a buttery Nalli nehari (THB 690), with lamb shanks that were deliciously tender while I enjoyed their Gobhi, methi aur aloo ka tuk (THB 325). The different textures of the cauliflower and the potatoes mixed well with the tangy tomatoes and curry leaves. I also tried their Rattan manjusha (THB 425), a spinach and shitake mushroom kofta, cooked in a tomato gravy. The rich curry was very moreish when eaten with the nutty and meaty spinach kofta. No visit to an Indian restaurant is complete without trying their biryani, and for this occasion, we had Vegetarian biryani (THB 425), along with burhani raita, which is made with toasted garlic. Overall, it was a hearty bowl that I thoroughly enjoyed.
From the dessert menu, we sampled their Saffron kulfi with sev boondi (THB 225), a refreshing, floral and milky kulfi topped on a bed of honeyed boondi. If you would like to indulge in an Indian sweet, this would be the perfect option for you.
MASALA RECOMMENDS
The Rasmalai tres leches (THB 275) is a divine treat, served in a cocktail glass. You can see the layers of cream, saffron milk, rasmalai and rabri, garnished with nuts and dried roses. As I took a bite, the cloud-like texture of the sweetened rasmalai paired with crisp lemon biscuits complemented each other so well that I couldn’t help but ask for more.
JASHN
973 Phloen Chit Rd, President Tower, Level B Lumphini, Pathum Wan, Bangkok 10330
Open daily from 11am to 2pm
Tel: 02 656 1624
Facebook and Instagram: @jashnbkk
